Dog feeding for enrichment

How do you currently feed your dog?

Many people just put their dog’s food in their bowl.  This is a wasted opportunity for enrichment!

Why should you feed your dog using the enrichment method?

  • Your dog’s food provides a simple but effective opportunity to provide some mental stimulation.  This is particularly important for active dogs.
  • Using enrichment methods of feeding has the added bonus of slowing down your dog whilst they are eating.  This is useful for dogs that ‘wolf’ down their food.

What feeding methods can I use for enrichment?

Don’t skimp on dog food quality just because you are feeding for enrichment.  Check out my blog post on food choices.

Feeding dry dog food for enrichment

Dry dog food can be scattered, hidden, or placed in toys for enrichment. 

Scatter feeding your dog for enrichment

  • This is the simplest method of feeding if you are short of time.  This takes no more time than putting food in your dog’s bowl.
  • Get a handful of kibble and throw it out on the kitchen floor.
  • Once your dog gets the hang of this you could throw it out on to the garden patio.  For a greater challenge throw it out on to the lawn.
  • You may wish to consider using a smaller size kibble so there is more to find.

Hiding your dog’s food for enrichment

  • This uses your dog’s sense of smell to find the food.  This is an excellent choice since searching for food is a very natural behaviour for your dog.  Your dog has a large area of his brain that is dedicated to scent detection for this purpose.
  • Put your dog away and then place individual bits of kibble around the kitchen.  Let your dog in to find the kibble.
  • Once your dog gets the hang of this you could hide the food under or behind things.  Just be careful that your dog is not going to knock something valuable over to get to the food!  You can progress this by hiding your dog’s kibble in the garden.
  • You may want to consider using a smaller size kibble so there is more to find.
Pickle the Chihuahua searches for her food

Using dog food toys for enrichment

There are many enrichment toys on the market that you can put your dog’s dry food inside.  These are some of our favourites.

Kong Wobbler
Kong Wobbler Dog Toy
  • Kong Wobblers are a great toy for active dogs who enjoy working for their food.
  • You simply unscrew the base and put the kibble inside.
  • The toy has a hole in the top so that when the dog knocks the toy then food drops out.
Snuffle Mat
Snuffle Mat Dog Toy
  • Snuffle Mats are fleece feeding mats that are excellent for dogs that enjoy using their nose to search out or ‘snuffle’ for the food.
  • Just hide bits of kibble within the strands of the mat.
  • You dog doesn’t need a lot of space to use this enrichment feeding method.

Feeding wet dog food for enrichment

Using dog food toys for enrichment

There are many enrichment toys on the market that you can use with your dog’s wet food.  These are some popular choices.

Kong Classic
Kong Classic Dog Toy
  • The classic Kong toy has been around since the 70s and is still one of the best products on the market.
  • They are available in sizes suiting very small to very large dogs.
  • The basic idea is you put food inside the Kong and then the dog licks the contents out.
  • You could just stuff the Kong with your dog’s wet dog food or alternatively add in a few bits of dry kibble for some extra crunch.
  • Dogs that find it too easy to empty a Kong may find one that has been frozen more challenging.
  • You could also smear a small quantity of some appetising food around the inside of the Kong.  Popular choices are peanut butter, Marmite, cream cheese, or pate.
  • The healthy option is to blend some fruit or vegetables then freeze the Kong so your dog get a fun ice lolly!
Pickle the Chihuahua eating from a Kong Classic
Kong Quest Star Pod
Kong Quest Star Pod Dog Toy
  • Kong Quest Star Pod toys have lots of sections so you can add different food to each.
  • This disc toy stays flat on the floor so is less prone to crash around or roll under a table.
Pickle the Chihuahua eating from a Kong Quest Star Pod
Trixie Snack Snake
Snake Dog Toy
  • Snake dog treat toys are the new big thing in dog enrichment.
  • You can use small treats, kibble, or wet dog food with this toy.
  • The snake is made of rubber with a slit along its belly for stuffing the enrichment food in.
LickiMat
LickiMat Dog Toy
  • LickiMats are great because most dogs love to lick. The act of licking can be calming for many dogs.
  • You can use lots of different types of food on a LickiMat, basically anything that is safe to eat and can go in a blender is good on a LickiMat.
  • Put you LickiMat in the freezer before giving it to your dog for a longer licking session.

Take Home Message

Every time you feed your dog is an opportunity to enrich their life.  Every time you just feed in a bowl you waste that opportunity.

Check out what’s available on Amazon and go enrich your dog’s life now!

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

My dog training method

I often get asked what is my dog training “method”? Is it reward-based, positive, dominance, science-based …?

How I train a dog

I want to reply that it’s a bit of science, a bit of fun, and a bit of making it up as I go along.

Science-based dog training

… but the question probably means “do I use dominance-based or science-based training”?

That’s an easy answer since dominance-based training is really just mumbo-jumbo!

Punishment and / or reward

Once that question is out the way the next question might be, do I use reward, punishment or a combination of both to train dogs?

The answer to this question could be a little more confusing since the science of behaviourism allows for the use of punishment to change behaviour!

A brief history of dog training science

During the development of Psychology, experiments on animals established that if you provided specific consequences (rewarding or punishing) to a behaviour then the behaviour may increase or decrease in future. The science of behaviourism was born. It did little, however, to consider what the animal was thinking or feeling since it only considered the behaviour.

Dog cognition

Understanding what an animal is thinking (cognition) is very difficult (even in humans) and what it is feeling even more so.

Modern Psychology not only studies behaviour but also cognition (perception and processing of information “thinking”) AND emotion.

Dog emotion

Considering emotion is important because it is a factor that influences behaviour greatly in both us and our dogs.

How would you feel…

Imagine you try to learn a totally new skill, especially something you don’t have a natural aptitude for (e.g. dancing or a new language). You go to the first class, the teacher asks you to lead with your left foot or to conjugate a verb. You lead with your right foot or get your verb endings wrong.

How does your teacher respond? How do your feel? Embarrassed, angry, defensive, frustrated?

What is your dog thinking and feeling

How would your emotional state affect your next attempt? Would you even come back to the next class if you had a bad experience?

Now imagine you are training your dog to sit. The dog has learnt this perfectly in your living room. At the roadside you ask the dog to sit but he doesn’t do it even though he knows how to. Why not, and what do you do next?

You could push your dog into position or yank up on the lead. Did that work? Yes!

It sounds like you have just used pain or discomfort to train him to sit by the roadside. But… what about his emotions?

The question should have been why did the dog sit at home but not at the roadside? At home he had practised sitting many times and hopefully been rewarded for it with treats, toys or even just a happy “good boy”. He also faced few distractions and hopefully felt safe at home. Outside there are other considerations. Cognition being the first. Could he hear you properly over the traffic noise? Were you standing by his side rather than in front of him like you do at home? These “perception” factors make the task much harder for your dog.

The second consideration is emotion. Is your dog fearful or perhaps just overwhelmed by the sight and sound of the traffic as you ask him to sit by the curb? Misunderstanding your dog’s emotions at this point is likely to lead you to feel frustrated and emotional yourself. Take a step back and think about why you dog is not doing what you asked. He may have understood what you wanted but is his emotional state preventing him from responding as you wanted?

So, what would I do in that situation?

I refer you back to my training method of “…. a bit of making it up as I go along.”

Be adaptable! In this case I might simply ask the dog to sit a step back from the curb to give him space from the traffic. If that doesn’t work, I might practice on a quiet street with no traffic. If that doesn’t work then perhaps the behaviour at home was not as good as I thought it was so I would go back to practising there first.

Don’t assume that if your dog does not respond as you want, he is being “stubborn”. He may not understand you or may be stuck in an emotional state.

Using punishment may worsen your dog’s emotional state and cause him to lose trust in your relationship generally. He may then shut down and become reluctant to try new things.

About me

I set up Rainbow Dogs in 2004 and started studying for a degree in Psychology as a mature student soon after.

I use science-based and reward-based positive training methods since they work whilst keeping your dog in a healthy emotional state.

I try to consider the thoughts and feelings of my clients as well as their dogs during my training sessions.

How to compare dog trainers

There are so many things to consider when looking for a dog trainer. Check out this handy list.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

How safe is your dog in your car?

Would you drive without a seat belt or allow your passengers or child to do so?

There have been various changes in the law in the UK over the years with attitudes to safer car travel following. So, the answer is probably NO!

You may be breaking the highway code and invalidating your car insurance if you don’t properly secure your dog.

So why do you allow your dog to travel unrestrained or just being held in someone’s arms?

The answer in part is not knowing the best way to keep your dog safe.

Seat belts and child seats undergo rigorous mandatory safety checks. There is no official requirement for safer dog travel.

Where should my dog be in my car?

In the boot space

The advantage of this solution is your dog is not going to interfere with your driving and you can still use your seats for people.

The disadvantage is you have limited space for luggage.

Safety-wise if you break suddenly your dog may travel over the top of the backseat through the car hitting the back of your head or the windscreen. You should therefore consider the option of a crate, car guard or net, or to tether your dog in the boot space. Most cars have a tether point in the boot space to use.

Your boot is designed to be a crumple zone to keep you safe in an accident. This may therefore be the least safe place for your dog.

On the back seat

The advantage of this solution is your dog is not going to interfere with your driving and you can still use your boot for luggage. The disadvantage is you have reduced space for passengers.

Safety-wise if you break suddenly your dog could travel through the car hitting the back of your head or the windscreen. Tethering your dog will prevent this.

On the front seat

The disadvantage of this solution is your dog may be a distraction to you potentially causing an accident.

The advantage is your dog may be calmer being close to you.

This solution is similar to having your dog on the back seat except for the fact that you may have a front passenger airbag. Airbags are not designed for dogs and so could do more harm than good in an accident. You may be able to deactivate your car’s passenger airbag.

What equipment should I use?

A tether

This is the most simple and cheap solution!

It can be used in the boot, back or front seat.

Keeping the tether short will minimise travel in the event of an accident and reduce whiplash.

When the dog is just tethered by its collar in an accident the collar could fail and the force may cause seriously damage the dog’s neck.

A harness

The better option is therefore to use a harness. In the event of a crash the force would be distributed over the dog’s body. A loose-fitting harness may allow the dog to get free in an accident.  The harness should therefore fit snug to the dog’s body.  The harness should also be of good construction so no part would not fail in an accident.

A dog car seat with a harness and tether

A car seat helps to keep your dog more contained, it may also be more comfortable, and helps keep your car cleaner.

It can be used in the boot, back or front seat.

This in itself is not safely equipment so a harness and tether should also be used!

A dog crate

This has the advantage of keeping your dog contained during travel. The disadvantage is some dogs may find crate travel stressful.

In the event of an accident if your dog’s create is not securely tethered then not only will the dog be travelling through the car but the create will too. You also need to consider that your dog will hit the front of the crate in the event of an accident and the crate may not withstand the force.

Depending on the car, crate, and dog size the crate may be placed in the boot, back seat or front seat.

What’s the safest option?

In the absence of official comparative crash test data, we don’t know!

You can buy a seat belt clip for just a couple of pounds.

However, this crash test video demonstrates the inadequacy of many harnesses in an accident.

Look for a harness of good construction with sturdy clips.

Sleepypod have crash tested their dog car harnesses at 30mph.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

Cold weather survival guide for you and your dog!

As the first flakes of snow drop in Brighton & Hove it pays to be prepared!

Wrap up warm

This is advice for you rather than your dog! It means you won’t be in a rush to come home because you are cold. Your dog already has a fur coat and most do not need an additional coat. The exception is breeds with low body fat such as greyhounds or whippets. If your dog is very young or old they may also need a little extra insulation. If your dog is not well then check with your vet if they are okay to go out in the cold and if they may need a coat. Perhaps hold off giving your dog a hair cut so he keeps that extra fur for insulation.

Clean your feet when you get home

This is also advice for you so you don’t stomp snow into the carpet!  It can however be a good idea to wash your dogs paws when you get home in case he has walked in salt that has been put down.  The salt could be an irritant for his paws and you would also not want him licking it off since that could make him sick!

Go play in the snow

This can be good fun for the both of you! Don’t use the cold weather as an excuse to not walk your dog. He still needs exercise and mental stimulation so as long as you are sensible he will not mind the cold weather.


Check out our blog post on how to manage your dog in hot weather.


Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

When should I neuter my dog?

One of the questions I am regularly asked by new puppy owners is “how old should my dog be when I neuter him / her”.

A very simple question without a simple answer

It is one of those “hot-button” topics for many people that can evoke equally passionate arguments from pro and anti-neuter advocates.

I always try to take a pragmatic view in dog training so that seems like a reasonable way to approach the sometimes emotive question of neutering.

These are some of the things you may wish to consider:

  • The physical health of your dog
  • The behavioural well-being of your dog
  • The needs of the owner
  • The needs of society

The physical health of your dog

What does your vet say?

A visit to your vet should answer this question, right? Well, no. You are likely to get a range of opinions from your vet. In my experience some will say do it as soon as possible, some say wait until about six months (or after the first season for a bitch), some will say only do it if required for veterinary reasons. No consensus at all!

A common reason for neutering given by some vets is the reduced risk of cancers. In bitches this could be mammary tumours and male dogs testicular or prostate cancer. Ask your vet to talk you through this.

What does the research say?

Research into the consequences of neutering should inform your decision.

This research however by its nature is difficult the conduct. The ideal, but impractical, method would be to follow a group of neutered and unneutered dogs of both sexes and multiple breeds over their lifetime to determine the consequences of neutering. An alternative method has been to retrospectively analyse data collected to look at significant effects. Good research requires good data with reasonable sample sizes. In the US research with Golden Retrievers (a very popular breed) has given some insight. However it would be wrong to assume that the results of studies on one breed can be generalised to all.

The behavioural well-being of your dog

Asking your trainer or behaviourist should give you an answer then? Again, there is little consensus between different trainers or behaviourists.

It is widely believed by owners that neutering will “calm down” a dog. This is however a major simplification.

Some male dogs will have poor recall because they have an overriding drive to seek out a mate.

Some male dogs will get themselves into trouble with other dogs by attempting to mount.

Does your male dog “have” to be kept on lead because of his hormone driven behaviours which restricts his general quality of life?

Neutering, however is not a “silver bullet” to behavioural problems for all dogs.

The needs of the owner

Do you have more than one dog in your home? How will you prevent unwanted mating.

Do you have good general control of your dog?

Can you cope with a bitch in season twice a year for three weeks at a time?

Do you plan to show your dog and therefore are required to keep him / her entire?

Do you plan to breed from your dog? Is he / she a perfect example of the breed with no health or behaviour problems? Have you considered all the implications of breeding?

The needs of society

In the UK there are thousands of unwanted dogs in rescue. Many of these got there through sellers wanting to make a “quick buck” by selling puppies to owners who did not research dog ownership sufficiently. Deliberate or accidental breeding of your dog just adds to this problem.

Is your dog a sex pest? Does he try to hump everything in sight making life stressful for other dogs and owners?

What do other owners do?

I asked the question “At what age (if at all) would you neuter your dog” on a Facebook Group that advocates positive dog training methods. The group is used by trainers and dog owners interested in training. This is not a scientific study but just a snap-shot of opinion!

I received 638 responses within 24 hours. The four main responses were are as follows:

  • Between 6-12 months: 25%
  • Between 12-24 months: 44%
  • After 24 months: 12%
  • Never: 19% 

Conclusion

Some people have very strong views pro or anti-neutering. For those people who do neuter there has been a general shift in opinion from neutering at six months to waiting until at least 12 months.

Do your own research since everyone’s circumstances will be different!

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

Some like it hot – but not dogs!

UK weather and dogs

When the sun comes out in the UK we tend to get over-excited and common sense goes out the window.

Dogs are one of the most adaptable species on the planet and have evolved to live in most countries of the world.  We therefore do not need to over-react and keep them inside once the sun comes out but we should use some common sense.

Hot Surfaces

Have you ever walked barefoot on hot sand?  You will run, hopping and yelping until you get to the sea or some shade.  A good test is to hold the back of your hand on the ground for five seconds.  If it is too hot for you then it is too hot for your dog.  

Dogs are barefoot all the time so if the sun is very hot then so is the pavement.  The simple solution here is to seek out shade.  In town, this may mean crossing the street to get the shade of buildings.  Where possible walk your dog on grass verges rather than the pavement since it will be much cooler.

Cooling down

When we get hot we sweat to cool down. Dogs don’t! Although they sweat a small amount through their paws the main way they cool down is by panting.  We sensibly take a bottle of water out with us when it is hot so do the same for your dog if you will be out for a while. Fold-flat water bowls are really handy.

Have a rest

Chill out under the shade of a tree for a while. This gives you both a chance to cool down.

Don’t run a marathon

Dogs are generally much more active in the park than we are so leave the ball at home when really hot since the motivation to play may override the motivation to rest. If you do want to give your dog a good run then go out earlier or later in the day when it’s cooler.

Garden

Have water and shade available in your garden. A doggy paddling pool can also be great fun!

Grooming

When we are hot we can take a layer of clothes off.  Give your dog a good brush to get out the undercoat and remove matts.  Some breeds i.e. terriers can be stripped to reduce hair and some breeds can be trimmed.

Young, fit, and healthy?

A dog who is young, fit, and healthy will do fine in the sun with sensible precautions. You may however need to be extra careful with puppies, older dogs, unfit dogs, or dogs with health conditions. Seek your vet’s advice as appropriate.

Brachycephalic (short nose) dogs

Breeds like the very popular Pug and French Bulldog need extra care.  These dogs have been breed to have very short faces meaning they have more difficulty breathing generally and cooling down when hot. Brachycephalic breeds can therefore quickly overheat. 

Heatstroke

If you are concerned that your dog may be suffering from heatstroke then get him into shade immediately. Cool him down gradually with water but not rapidly with cold water or ice. Contact your vet for advice.

Cars

It should go without saying now that dogs should never be left in cars on hot days. Even if it does not seem very hot, if the car is in shade, if left for short periods, or if the window is open! The temperature inside the car will quickly make it very unsafe for a dog with the possibility of heatstroke and death. If you see a dog in a hot car don’t delay but call 999 for help.


Check out RSPCA advice on what to do if you see a dog in a hot car.


Check out our blog post on how to manage your dog in cold weather.


Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

My dog is not interested in food!

My dog is not interested in food is something I sometimes hear from new clients. When I look down I often see a well feed or overweight dog looking back at me.

Food is a biological need for all of us including our furry friends.

What owners usually mean is their dog is not interested enough in the food they are offering at that moment in time.

Most puppies start their life with us enthusiastically eating what is put in front of them but over time some realise that if they wait us out then we will give them something “better” e.g. a little bit of gravy poured over their dry kibble or even a tin of wet food. As time goes on they may wait for some fresh chicken to be mixed in. We have then created a “fussy eater”.

It could be time to get your dog weighed and checked over by the vet and reduce his food a little if necessary. It’s great if you are spending time training your dog with treats but you may need to reduce his daily food allowance a little to compensate.

We may ask our dog to come back in the park and when he does we give him a dry biscuit. The dog may have run back from playing with all his friends and so is a little disappointed and therefore next time does not bother to come back. You could try using a higher value treat like Natures Menu (95% meat) which are tasty and have a strong scent to make his recall worth while.

Perhaps you have a nervous dog and when friends visit you ask them to offer him a biscuit but he still keeps away. In this situation the dog does not want the treat enough to risk the meeting the scary visitor.

Your dog may not like travelling in the car so you try to lure him in with a treat but the fear of the car journey outweighs the pleasure of the treat.

Treats are incredibly useful for training your dog in a positive way but the benefit for him has to outweigh the cost.

If you are worried about your dog not eating enough then please get him checked out by your vet to rule out any veterinary problems.

Please feel free to contact me if you need any help with your dog’s behaviour.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

Staying at a holiday let with your dog

One of the best things about staying in a holiday let is that you get to take the dog! These are our top tips for a successful break with your dog.

How do I find dog friendly holiday let properties?

It used to be a case of having to flick through the holiday brochures trying to find a dog friendly cottage.  How times have changed!  You can still look at the brochures or even the websites of the old agencies but you will also have to pay their sometimes hefty commissions.

The new alternative is booking direct with the owner! You could Google all the dog friendly websites or alternatively use a Facebook group like dogfriendlyholidays which aims to match up holiday home owners with dog owners.

Should I bring my dog on holiday with me?

How much will your dog come out and about with you on holiday? If the answer is not very much at all then perhaps consider leaving him home with friends or family or a trusted dog sitter.

What will you do with him when he can’t come with you to the local supermarket or that posh little restaurant in town?

Some property owners are happy for your dog to be left for short periods but some may insist he shouldn’t be left at all!

What should I consider before going away with my dog?

Many owners use crates for their puppies but abandon them once their dog gets a little older. Now is a good time to reintroduce it. A dog that is happy being in his crate will have somewhere safe and secure to retreat into which is especially important in a strange place.

How does your dog cope with being left alone at home? If the answer is he is never left or he barks, chews, or messes then you can almost guarantee he will we worse in a strange new place. Consider getting some help with his separation anxiety now before you even consider going away and leaving him in a strange place.

Some holiday lets may insist that your dog is crated when left alone. Dogs that have never used a crate should not be put into one for the first time when left in a strange place since this is likely to be very stressful! Consider getting some professional advice on introducing a dog to a crate.

Where does your dog sleep at night? If the answer is in your bedroom, on your bed, or in your bed then check the property owner’s terms carefully. Many properties do not allow dogs on beds or even in bedrooms so your dog would need to be happy in a crate in the kitchen or living room.

Make sure your dog’s vaccinations, worming, and flea/tick treatments are up to date. Country locations may present a higher risk of worms, ticks, and water-borne pathogens.

Travel abroad may also require a rabies vaccination. Check with your vet since you may need to plan several months in advance.

Does your dog get anxious or travel sick in the car. You should start to work on this in advance of your trip. See an experienced dog behaviourist now if your dog has problems travelling.

Is the property a good choice for me?

Everyone has a different idea of what dog friendly means; property owners and guests alike. Some properties may just be dog “tolerant” others may be (almost) anything goes. If your dog has an “access all areas” life style at home then a “no dogs on the sofa” rule on holiday may not be practical for you.

How secure a garden do you need?  Is your dog happy to just plod around the garden or would he easily jump a 4ft fence given the chance?

Be sure to read the terms and conditions before you book to avoid any problems. If you are not sure of the property owners rules then double check before you book. If these rules don’t match up with your expectations then find somewhere else that does!

Am I a responsible dog owner?

When staying at a holiday let property you should be a responsible dog owner. The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme provides a comprehensive criteria on what it means to be a responsible dog owner

Some specific things to consider on your holiday are:

  • Clean up after your dog, both in the property grounds and when out on walks.
  • Be very careful around cattle and sheep, especially if you have a city dog that has never encountered farm animals before. You must always have your dog on lead in areas where cattle and sheep may be around.
  • Don’t leave your dog in a car. In warm weather, even with a window open with access to water, cars soon become like a greenhouse for a dog.Dogs can very quickly overheat and become dehydrated with potentially fatal consequences.
  • Prepare for the worst. You have a legal responsibility to have a tag on your dog and have him microchipped. Make sure the microchip details are up to date with your current mobile phone number before your trip.

Things to do the day you travel

Make sure your dog is safely secured in your car.

Don’t forget to pack for your dog. Bring his bed or ideally a crate. He will also need his lead, toys, medication, and bowls.

Bring enough of his regular food since a sudden change of diet could upset his stomach.

Plan “comfort breaks” en route.

Oh, and don’t forget to bring the dog! Have a great holiday!

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

How to stop dog pee ruining your lawn

Many dog owners are worried about dog pee ruining their lawn. Lets look at the problem and possible solutions.

What is it about dog pee that is ruining your lawn?

A common belief is that the urine of bitches burns your lawn and that the urine dogs fertilises it. On the surface this is a reasonable explanation based on anecdotal evidence.

However, there is another explanation…Nitrogen!

In low concentration the nitrogen in your dog’s urine fertilises the grass encouraging growth but in high concentration it burns it.

The girls tend to squat and so the urine is concentrated in one area.

The boys like to spray it around, covering a greater area.

What about pH levels?

This explanation seems to be based on the desire to sell you products that alter your dog’s acid / alkaline levels. This is NOT something you want to do without first taking veterinary advice since you could easily be damaging your dog’s health!

The solution is dilution!

If your lawn is important to you then go buy a watering can and use it as soon as possible after your dog has used the area to eliminate.

The other option is training

Teach your dog to eliminate in a specific part of your garden.  This is best achieved by taking him on lead to a specific area of the garden.  You could also use a different substrate e.g. bark chipping and train your dog to just go on there.

What about a pee post?

 
 
 

This is a logical idea for the boys who like to raise their leg. It should also retain the dog’s odour encouraging him back. A quick look at reviews on Amazonsuggest it does not work, however I wonder how many owners put the effort in to take their dog on lead over to the post to pee?


Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

Follow Rainbow Dogs on Facebook.

HELP! My dog is stressed what should I do?

HELP! My dog is stressed what should I do?

Having a stressed do is unpleasant for the dog but also stressful for the owner!

If you have a stressed dog then you need to identify:

  • When the dog is stressed?
  • What are the causes (stressors / triggers)?
  • What is the solution?
  • Is the solution working?

When your dog is stressed?

You may believe your dog is feeling stressed but dogs cannot directly tell us so we need to look for outward signs e.g.:

  • Panting
  • Pacing
  • Trembling
  • Licking
  • Self-mutilation
  • Hyper-vigilance
  • Chewing
  • Eliminating
  • Vocalisation
  • Escape attempts
  • Hackles up
  • Aggression

Identify what is causing the stress; the stressors or triggers

The dog’s genetics, early socialisation and subsequent learning may have played a part in his current stress; however the only thing you have some control over is the dog’s current environment e.g.

  • The home of a newly rescued dog
  • The home of a newly adopted puppy
  • A strange place
  • Being alone somewhere
  • A vet
  • A groomer
  • A boarding kennel
  • Travelling in the car
  • Thunder or fireworks outside
  • Strange people
  • Strange dogs
  • A stressed-out owner

The solution

You are not going to focus on the outward signs of stress but instead look at why the dog is feeling stressed. You need to reduce the feeling of fear and anxiety which should result in less of the outward signs of stress. The accepted scientific solution is a gradual exposure to the stressor ideally whilst positive things happen. In technical terms this is known as systematic desensitisation and counter conditioning. This exposure needs to occur at a very low level that the dog can cope with without becoming stressed. The level of exposure can then be gradually increased over time therefore increasing the dog’s tolerance. In practical terms owners often will not have the skills or experience to put this in to practice and therefore should seek out a dog trainer with a sound understanding of dog behaviour.

Is the solution is working?

This is more difficult than it may sound since you cannot ask the dog if he is feeling better. It is therefore time to look again at the outward signs. Have they reduced and only occur in more extreme situations? Then yes, it is working! It is likely that work is still needed to increase the dog’s tolerance and decrease his stress further.

What about drugs, holistic remedies, DAP etc?

Medications for a stressed dog

Only a vet can prescribe drugs. You may however consider drugs which alter the brain chemistry of your dog to be a last resort.

Holistic remedies for a stressed dog

Many people believe in holistic remedies but this is not backed up with a body of scientific evidence. Such remedies may help if the owner believes in them; reducing the owner’s stress and consequently the dog’s!

DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) for a stressed dog

DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) products are a chemical copy of the pheromone that the mother secretes after giving birth to her puppies. This helps calm the puppy and strengthen attachment during this turbulent period of the puppy’s development.Numerous clinical trials have provided evidence that DAP can increase feelings of security. Many of the outward signs of stress are consequently reduced in puppies and adult dogs especially when DAP is used in conjunction with behaviour modification to reduce the feelings of stress.

DAP products are available as a plug-in for a specific environment or as a collar which is especially useful when the dog is outside of his comfort zone.


Please contact us today for help to reduce your dog’s stress.

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