How safe is your dog in your car?

Would you drive without a seat belt or allow your passengers or child to do so?

There have been various changes in the law in the UK over the years with attitudes to safer car travel following. So, the answer is probably NO!

You may be breaking the highway code and invalidating your car insurance if you don’t properly secure your dog.

So why do you allow your dog to travel unrestrained or just being held in someone’s arms?

The answer in part is not knowing the best way to keep your dog safe.

Seat belts and child seats undergo rigorous mandatory safety checks. There is no official requirement for safer dog travel.

Where should my dog be in my car?

In the boot space

The advantage of this solution is your dog is not going to interfere with your driving and you can still use your seats for people.

The disadvantage is you have limited space for luggage.

Safety-wise if you break suddenly your dog may travel over the top of the backseat through the car hitting the back of your head or the windscreen. You should therefore consider the option of a crate, car guard or net, or to tether your dog in the boot space. Most cars have a tether point in the boot space to use.

Your boot is designed to be a crumple zone to keep you safe in an accident. This may therefore be the least safe place for your dog.

On the back seat

The advantage of this solution is your dog is not going to interfere with your driving and you can still use your boot for luggage. The disadvantage is you have reduced space for passengers.

Safety-wise if you break suddenly your dog could travel through the car hitting the back of your head or the windscreen. Tethering your dog will prevent this.

On the front seat

The disadvantage of this solution is your dog may be a distraction to you potentially causing an accident.

The advantage is your dog may be calmer being close to you.

This solution is similar to having your dog on the back seat except for the fact that you may have a front passenger airbag. Airbags are not designed for dogs and so could do more harm than good in an accident. You may be able to deactivate your car’s passenger airbag.

What equipment should I use?

A tether

This is the most simple and cheap solution!

It can be used in the boot, back or front seat.

Keeping the tether short will minimise travel in the event of an accident and reduce whiplash.

When the dog is just tethered by its collar in an accident the collar could fail and the force may cause seriously damage the dog’s neck.

A harness

The better option is therefore to use a harness. In the event of a crash the force would be distributed over the dog’s body. A loose-fitting harness may allow the dog to get free in an accident.  The harness should therefore fit snug to the dog’s body.  The harness should also be of good construction so no part would not fail in an accident.

A dog car seat with a harness and tether

A car seat helps to keep your dog more contained, it may also be more comfortable, and helps keep your car cleaner.

It can be used in the boot, back or front seat.

This in itself is not safely equipment so a harness and tether should also be used!

A dog crate

This has the advantage of keeping your dog contained during travel. The disadvantage is some dogs may find crate travel stressful.

In the event of an accident if your dog’s create is not securely tethered then not only will the dog be travelling through the car but the create will too. You also need to consider that your dog will hit the front of the crate in the event of an accident and the crate may not withstand the force.

Depending on the car, crate, and dog size the crate may be placed in the boot, back seat or front seat.

What’s the safest option?

In the absence of official comparative crash test data, we don’t know!

You can buy a seat belt clip for just a couple of pounds.

However, this crash test video demonstrates the inadequacy of many harnesses in an accident.

Look for a harness of good construction with sturdy clips.

Sleepypod have crash tested their dog car harnesses at 30mph.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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Cold weather survival guide for you and your dog!

As the first flakes of snow drop in Brighton & Hove it pays to be prepared!

Wrap up warm

This is advice for you rather than your dog! It means you won’t be in a rush to come home because you are cold. Your dog already has a fur coat and most do not need an additional coat. The exception is breeds with low body fat such as greyhounds or whippets. If your dog is very young or old they may also need a little extra insulation. If your dog is not well then check with your vet if they are okay to go out in the cold and if they may need a coat. Perhaps hold off giving your dog a hair cut so he keeps that extra fur for insulation.

Clean your feet when you get home

This is also advice for you so you don’t stomp snow into the carpet!  It can however be a good idea to wash your dogs paws when you get home in case he has walked in salt that has been put down.  The salt could be an irritant for his paws and you would also not want him licking it off since that could make him sick!

Go play in the snow

This can be good fun for the both of you! Don’t use the cold weather as an excuse to not walk your dog. He still needs exercise and mental stimulation so as long as you are sensible he will not mind the cold weather.

Check out our blog post on how to manage your dog in hot weather.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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When should I neuter my dog?

One of the questions I am regularly asked by new puppy owners is “how old should my dog be when I neuter him / her”.

A very simple question without a simple answer

It is one of those “hot-button” topics for many people that can evoke equally passionate arguments from pro and anti-neuter advocates.

I always try to take a pragmatic view in dog training so that seems like a reasonable way to approach the sometimes emotive question of neutering.

These are some of the things you may wish to consider:

  • The physical health of your dog
  • The behavioural well-being of your dog
  • The needs of the owner
  • The needs of society

The physical health of your dog

What does your vet say?

A visit to your vet should answer this question, right? Well, no. You are likely to get a range of opinions from your vet. In my experience some will say do it as soon as possible, some say wait until about six months (or after the first season for a bitch), some will say only do it if required for veterinary reasons. No consensus at all!

A common reason for neutering given by some vets is the reduced risk of cancers. In bitches this could be mammary tumours and male dogs testicular or prostate cancer. Ask your vet to talk you through this.

What does the research say?

Research into the consequences of neutering should inform your decision.

This research however by its nature is difficult the conduct. The ideal, but impractical, method would be to follow a group of neutered and unneutered dogs of both sexes and multiple breeds over their lifetime to determine the consequences of neutering. An alternative method has been to retrospectively analyse data collected to look at significant effects. Good research requires good data with reasonable sample sizes. In the US research with Golden Retrievers (a very popular breed) has given some insight. However it would be wrong to assume that the results of studies on one breed can be generalised to all.

The behavioural well-being of your dog

Asking your trainer or behaviourist should give you an answer then? Again, there is little consensus between different trainers or behaviourists.

It is widely believed by owners that neutering will “calm down” a dog. This is however a major simplification.

Some male dogs will have poor recall because they have an overriding drive to seek out a mate.

Some male dogs will get themselves into trouble with other dogs by attempting to mount.

Does your male dog “have” to be kept on lead because of his hormone driven behaviours which restricts his general quality of life?

Neutering, however is not a “silver bullet” to behavioural problems for all dogs.

The needs of the owner

Do you have more than one dog in your home? How will you prevent unwanted mating.

Do you have good general control of your dog?

Can you cope with a bitch in season twice a year for three weeks at a time?

Do you plan to show your dog and therefore are required to keep him / her entire?

Do you plan to breed from your dog? Is he / she a perfect example of the breed with no health or behaviour problems? Have you considered all the implications of breeding?

The needs of society

In the UK there are thousands of unwanted dogs in rescue. Many of these got there through sellers wanting to make a “quick buck” by selling puppies to owners who did not research dog ownership sufficiently. Deliberate or accidental breeding of your dog just adds to this problem.

Is your dog a sex pest? Does he try to hump everything in sight making life stressful for other dogs and owners?

What do other owners do?

I asked the question “At what age (if at all) would you neuter your dog” on a Facebook Group that advocates positive dog training methods. The group is used by trainers and dog owners interested in training. This is not a scientific study but just a snap-shot of opinion!

I received 638 responses within 24 hours. The four main responses were are as follows:

  • Between 6-12 months: 25%
  • Between 12-24 months: 44%
  • After 24 months: 12%
  • Never: 19% 

Conclusion

Some people have very strong views pro or anti-neutering. For those people who do neuter there has been a general shift in opinion from neutering at six months to waiting until at least 12 months.

Do your own research since everyone’s circumstances will be different!

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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Review: tug-e-nuff rabbit skin bungee tug for dogs

There are many excellent dog toy products on the market but unfortunately many more that are not fit for purpose.

One product I always take with me to a dog training session in a tug-e-nuff rabbit skin bungee tug.

Why do I like tug-e-nuff?

The tug-e-nuff rabbit skin bungee tug has these features that make it perfect for working with a dog outside:

  • It’s real rabbit skin!  This will trigger your dog’s prey drive.
  • The bungee part means when the dog grabs the toy the tug is super rewarding and acts as a shock absorber for your arm!
  •  It has a loop handle so I can keep hold of it securely.
  • It is very high quality.  I have been using the same one since 2015 and it’s still going strong.

So how do I use a tug-e-nuff bungee? 

It can be used as an indoor toy but I use it exclusively as an interactive toy out on walks. Dogs that are distracted on walks need something to break through to grab their attention.

When I first present it to a dog they don’t grab it. They just stand and sniff it intently for a few seconds. This is why I use the rabbit skin version!

They then grab hold of it and tug. I get them into a super exciting tug game to reinforce it strongly.

Once it is primed for the dog I then put it back in my pocket ready for action.

Dogs that have a desire to chase bikes, skateboards, joggers etc can then be given the tug game as a super motivating alternative.

It can also be used as a reward for a dog with poor recall, especially for dogs that are not very food motivated.

To maintain the toy’s high value, I only use it when outside on walks. I would never leave it down as a chew toy since being rabbit skin your dog will likely want to “kill” it as quickly as possible.

Available in 3 different colours

Orange
Purple
tug-e-nuff rabbit skin bungee tug for dogs blue
Blue

Please let me have your feedback below if you have tried this product.

Do you need help with your dog chasing things he shouldn’t or with his recall? Please contact Rainbow Dogs for help training your dog around Brighton & Hove.

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Some like it hot – but not dogs!

UK weather and dogs

When the sun comes out in the UK we tend to get over-excited and common sense goes out the window.

Dogs are one of the most adaptable species on the planet and have evolved to live in most countries of the world.  We therefore do not need to over-react and keep them inside once the sun comes out but we should use some common sense.

Hot Surfaces

Have you ever walked barefoot on hot sand?  You will run, hopping and yelping until you get to the sea or some shade.  A good test is to hold the back of your hand on the ground for five seconds.  If it is too hot for you then it is too hot for your dog.  

Dogs are barefoot all the time so if the sun is very hot then so is the pavement.  The simple solution here is to seek out shade.  In town, this may mean crossing the street to get the shade of buildings.  Where possible walk your dog on grass verges rather than the pavement since it will be much cooler.

Cooling down

When we get hot we sweat to cool down. Dogs don’t! Although they sweat a small amount through their paws the main way they cool down is by panting.  We sensibly take a bottle of water out with us when it is hot so do the same for your dog if you will be out for a while. Fold-flat water bowls are really handy.

Have a rest

Chill out under the shade of a tree for a while. This gives you both a chance to cool down.

Don’t run a marathon

Dogs are generally much more active in the park than we are so leave the ball at home when really hot since the motivation to play may override the motivation to rest. If you do want to give your dog a good run then go out earlier or later in the day when it’s cooler.

Garden

Have water and shade available in your garden. A doggy paddling pool can also be great fun!

Grooming

When we are hot we can take a layer of clothes off.  Give your dog a good brush to get out the undercoat and remove matts.  Some breeds i.e. terriers can be stripped to reduce hair and some breeds can be trimmed.

Young, fit, and healthy?

A dog who is young, fit, and healthy will do fine in the sun with sensible precautions. You may however need to be extra careful with puppies, older dogs, unfit dogs, or dogs with health conditions. Seek your vet’s advice as appropriate.

Brachycephalic (short nose) dogs

Breeds like the very popular Pug and French Bulldog need extra care.  These dogs have been breed to have very short faces meaning they have more difficulty breathing generally and cooling down when hot. Brachycephalic breeds can therefore quickly overheat. 

Heatstroke

If you are concerned that your dog may be suffering from heatstroke then get him into shade immediately. Cool him down gradually with water but not rapidly with cold water or ice. Contact your vet for advice.

Cars

It should go without saying now that dogs should never be left in cars on hot days. Even if it does not seem very hot, if the car is in shade, if left for short periods, or if the window is open! The temperature inside the car will quickly make it very unsafe for a dog with the possibility of heatstroke and death. If you see a dog in a hot car don’t delay but call 999 for help.

Check out RSPCA advice on what to do if you see a dog in a hot car.

Check out our blog post on how to manage your dog in cold weather.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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My dog is not interested in food!

My dog is not interested in food is something I sometimes hear from new clients. When I look down I often see a well feed or overweight dog looking back at me.

Food is a biological need for all of us including our furry friends.

What owners usually mean is their dog is not interested enough in the food they are offering at that moment in time.

Most puppies start their life with us enthusiastically eating what is put in front of them but over time some realise that if they wait us out then we will give them something “better” e.g. a little bit of gravy poured over their dry kibble or even a tin of wet food. As time goes on they may wait for some fresh chicken to be mixed in. We have then created a “fussy eater”.

It could be time to get your dog weighed and checked over by the vet and reduce his food a little if necessary. It’s great if you are spending time training your dog with treats but you may need to reduce his daily food allowance a little to compensate.

We may ask our dog to come back in the park and when he does we give him a dry biscuit. The dog may have run back from playing with all his friends and so is a little disappointed and therefore next time does not bother to come back. You could try using a higher value treat like Natures Menu (95% meat) which are tasty and have a strong scent to make his recall worth while.

Perhaps you have a nervous dog and when friends visit you ask them to offer him a biscuit but he still keeps away. In this situation the dog does not want the treat enough to risk the meeting the scary visitor.

Your dog may not like travelling in the car so you try to lure him in with a treat but the fear of the car journey outweighs the pleasure of the treat.

Treats are incredibly useful for training your dog in a positive way but the benefit for him has to outweigh the cost.

If you are worried about your dog not eating enough then please get him checked out by your vet to rule out any veterinary problems.

Please feel free to contact me if you need any help with your dog’s behaviour.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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Proprioception – what’s that?

Most dogs love their walks; they get to run around at full speed and play with the other dogs in the park. Once they get home they sleep for hours until the next walk… right?

Some dogs, no matter how much “exercise” you give them still have energy to burn. Border Collies come to mind. Breeds of the “working” variety e.g. working Cocker Spaniels or working Labradors often don’t have an off switch either.

Perhaps the exercise they are getting is just half the picture? The organ that uses most energy is actually the brain so how do you work that part of your dog?

Opening your eyes is the first step. I recently went to St. Ann’s Well Gardens with a client with a high-energy Springer Spaniel cross. He loves to run around but also loves to be with his human. As we walked around the park we looked for things to do. There is a long log that is on its side on the grass. We lured Lord Nelson onto this with a treat which he was happy to take and then jumped off again. He jumped off because he didn’t have the balance to stay on and was also moving quickly. On his second attempt we used a second treat to keep him there. This was great fun for all of us. Next Nelson was asked to sit on the log, his back legs quivered as he did this as all the small mussels worked together to control this delicate manoeuvre.

We then set off to the next adventure in the form of a tree trunk. Nelson was asked to jump onto it which he was happy to do but did so at speed but then flew off the other side. The next attempt he took it a little more slowly and managed to stay on.

Around the park we found an upturned tree with a 30 degree incline which Nelson happily trotted up but then had to work out what to do at the end. He turned his body around slowly, a little unsure of what his back legs were doing, but managed it without falling off!

The next obstacle was the well itself. Nelson’s task here was to jump on and slowly manoeuvre around the edge. This was a tricky task since it was very narrow. Another great success for Nelson.

When we got home Nelson crashed out on his bed struggling to keep his eyes open.

 

This brings me back to my original question “Proprioception – what’s that?”. Proprioception is knowing where your body is in space. Anyone who has practiced yoga may understand how difficult it is at first to control our body slowly. With practice comes improved strength, flexibility, and balance. Slowing down so the mind has awareness about what their body is doing has similar advantages for dogs. The added bonus for a dog that has used his mind and body is he may then crash out after his trip to the park.

I call these training sessions Urban Agility since you use whatever your local park has to offer to mentally and physically work your dog. I can train these sessions with you or as part of my Groundwork service where I work your dog for you.

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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Tellington TTouch Workshop

We have a guest blogger today, Maddy with Jake Dog A.I.D. assistance dog in training telling us about the Tellington TTouch workshop we attended.

Navigating the maze 

Myself, Jake my German Shepherd and our trainer Mike were kindly invited to attend a Tellington TTouch workshop held by Caroline of Stylish Fido in Steyning.  It’s a fascinating subject with lots of novel concepts to think about and use such as non-habitual movement, where a variety of obstacles and surfaces are used to encourage dogs to become more aware of where their bodies are in space.  The dogs were taken around a type of obstacle course known as The Playground of Higher Learning at the beginning and end of the day; Jake started out clumsily knocking over every single pole balanced on cones with his back feet, but by the end was walking perfectly through the rungs of a rope ladder laid on the floor.  The challenge as always with Jake was trying to keep all movements slow and deliberate, when he wants to do everything at top speed!

We were shown how various types of body wrap helped aid calm and relaxed behaviour, one of which was demonstrated on a nervous dog who attended and seemed to make a real difference. The TTouch harness that utilises a front as well as a back attachment point was also demonstrated, and the manner in which it works to prevent pulling explained; I was already a convert to this style of harness as the very similar Perfect Fit harness has revolutionised the way Jake walks on the lead. Of course we also learned the touches themselves and came home with lots of ideas on how to use them, for example touching around the mouth and gums to help release stress that would otherwise be expressed via barking. Overall it was a really interesting and informative workshop that I would recommend to anyone willing to think outside the box about canine behaviour.

Stepping over poles 

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Staying at a holiday let with your dog

One of the best things about staying in a holiday let is that you get to take the dog! These are our top tips for a successful break with your dog.

How do I find dog friendly holiday let properties?

It used to be a case of having to flick through the holiday brochures trying to find a dog friendly cottage.  How times have changed!  You can still look at the brochures or even the websites of the old agencies but you will also have to pay their sometimes hefty commissions.

The new alternative is booking direct with the owner! You could Google all the dog friendly websites or alternatively use a Facebook group like dogfriendlyholidays which aims to match up holiday home owners with dog owners.

Should I bring my dog on holiday with me?

How much will your dog come out and about with you on holiday? If the answer is not very much at all then perhaps consider leaving him home with friends or family or a trusted dog sitter.

What will you do with him when he can’t come with you to the local supermarket or that posh little restaurant in town?

Some property owners are happy for your dog to be left for short periods but some may insist he shouldn’t be left at all!

What should I consider before going away with my dog?

Many owners use crates for their puppies but abandon them once their dog gets a little older. Now is a good time to reintroduce it. A dog that is happy being in his crate will have somewhere safe and secure to retreat into which is especially important in a strange place.

How does your dog cope with being left alone at home? If the answer is he is never left or he barks, chews, or messes then you can almost guarantee he will we worse in a strange new place. Consider getting some help with his separation anxiety now before you even consider going away and leaving him in a strange place.

Some holiday lets may insist that your dog is crated when left alone. Dogs that have never used a crate should not be put into one for the first time when left in a strange place since this is likely to be very stressful! Consider getting some professional advice on introducing a dog to a crate.

Where does your dog sleep at night? If the answer is in your bedroom, on your bed, or in your bed then check the property owner’s terms carefully. Many properties do not allow dogs on beds or even in bedrooms so your dog would need to be happy in a crate in the kitchen or living room.

Make sure your dog’s vaccinations, worming, and flea/tick treatments are up to date. Country locations may present a higher risk of worms, ticks, and water-borne pathogens.

Travel abroad may also require a rabies vaccination. Check with your vet since you may need to plan several months in advance.

Does your dog get anxious or travel sick in the car. You should start to work on this in advance of your trip. See an experienced dog behaviourist now if your dog has problems travelling.

Is the property a good choice for me?

Everyone has a different idea of what dog friendly means; property owners and guests alike. Some properties may just be dog “tolerant” others may be (almost) anything goes. If your dog has an “access all areas” life style at home then a “no dogs on the sofa” rule on holiday may not be practical for you.

How secure a garden do you need?  Is your dog happy to just plod around the garden or would he easily jump a 4ft fence given the chance?

Be sure to read the terms and conditions before you book to avoid any problems. If you are not sure of the property owners rules then double check before you book. If these rules don’t match up with your expectations then find somewhere else that does!

Am I a responsible dog owner?

When staying at a holiday let property you should be a responsible dog owner. The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme provides a comprehensive criteria on what it means to be a responsible dog owner

Some specific things to consider on your holiday are:

  • Clean up after your dog, both in the property grounds and when out on walks.
  • Be very careful around cattle and sheep, especially if you have a city dog that has never encountered farm animals before. You must always have your dog on lead in areas where cattle and sheep may be around.
  • Don’t leave your dog in a car. In warm weather, even with a window open with access to water, cars soon become like a greenhouse for a dog.Dogs can very quickly overheat and become dehydrated with potentially fatal consequences.
  • Prepare for the worst. You have a legal responsibility to have a tag on your dog and have him microchipped. Make sure the microchip details are up to date with your current mobile phone number before your trip.

Things to do the day you travel

Make sure your dog is safely secured in your car.

Don’t forget to pack for your dog. Bring his bed or ideally a crate. He will also need his lead, toys, medication, and bowls.

Bring enough of his regular food since a sudden change of diet could upset his stomach.

Plan “comfort breaks” en route.

Oh, and don’t forget to bring the dog! Have a great holiday!

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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How to stop dog pee ruining your lawn

Many dog owners are worried about dog pee ruining their lawn. Lets look at the problem and possible solutions.

What is it about dog pee that is ruining your lawn?

A common belief is that the urine of bitches burns your lawn and that the urine dogs fertilises it. On the surface this is a reasonable explanation based on anecdotal evidence.

However, there is another explanation…Nitrogen!

In low concentration the nitrogen in your dog’s urine fertilises the grass encouraging growth but in high concentration it burns it.

The girls tend to squat and so the urine is concentrated in one area.

The boys like to spray it around, covering a greater area.

What about pH levels?

This explanation seems to be based on the desire to sell you products that alter your dog’s acid / alkaline levels. This is NOT something you want to do without first taking veterinary advice since you could easily be damaging your dog’s health!

The solution is dilution!

If your lawn is important to you then go buy a watering can and use it as soon as possible after your dog has used the area to eliminate.

The other option is training

Teach your dog to eliminate in a specific part of your garden.  This is best achieved by taking him on lead to a specific area of the garden.  You could also use a different substrate e.g. bark chipping and train your dog to just go on there.

What about a pee post?

 
 
 

This is a logical idea for the boys who like to raise their leg. It should also retain the dog’s odour encouraging him back. A quick look at reviews on Amazonsuggest it does not work, however I wonder how many owners put the effort in to take their dog on lead over to the post to pee?

Mike Garner is a dog trainer and behaviourist at Rainbow Dogs in Brighton & Hove, Sussex.

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